Better Late Than Never

Mabry's Mill - Blue Ridge Parkway - Virginia

So…here we are one week away from our 2014 Fall Madventure and I haven’t finished last year’s postings.

Sigh.

I may well be the worst Blogger on the face of the planet.

What to do.

Finish?     Synopsize?     Just say the heck with it.

Not the last.     Nor the first methinks.

Synopsize it is then.

Cape May - New Jersey

An hour’s drive from Assateague one can hitch a ride on the Cape May – Lewes Ferry. The trip across the bay to Cape May was made on a brilliant sunny day with a few swells just to make things interesting. As the village comes to view it almost feels as if time travel is truly possible. Cape May is an enchanting, nostalgic little Victorian seaside village (lighthouse included) that having survived Hurricane Sandy (after our visit) is on our return to list for the future.

Learn more here: http://www.visitnj.org/cape-may

Fire Station - Cape May 

Cape May Lighthouse

Hereford Inlet Lighthouse - NJ

Up the coast a bit Hereford Inlet Lighthouse was near impossible to find...we passed the road to the light at least 3 times. It was, howsumever, well worth the effort once we did. The grounds are tiny, but carefully and beautifully landscaped by one of the volunteers. He has managed to work within the small space to make it feel larger than it is. 

It’s a strikingly colorful little Victorian garden enhanced by the Victorian build of the lighthouse itself. Though not spectacular in height (it sits almost hidden behind the Coast Guard rescue station), Hereford Inlet is, to date, my favorite light. 

(You can read more about this lighthouse here: http://www.lighthousefriends.com/light.asp?ID=388)

Coast Guard Station -
Note Lighthouse behind the Station.

Lighthouse Garden - Hereford Inlet, NJ

Barnegat Light - Long Beach Island, NJ

We were on a mission to make Long Beach Island, NJ before nightfall and we were running out of daylight. Our hostess for the evening was himself’s vivacious 80 + year old Aunt at home on the island. After a delicious evening meal at Kubel’s Restaurant near Barnegat Light I crashed early and missed the arrival of her daughter Nancy. Waking to the smell of coffee I stumbled into the kitchen and smack into the smiling face of himself’s cousin. Over coffee and breakfast, that included my new fave Taylor Ham (pork roll), Nancy and I proceeded to yak and bond through our shared path through widowhood…though she is much younger and years earlier into the journey. More coffee, a quick walk on the beach and playtime with her effervescent pooch later and we were on the road to our last stop on the upward bound portion of our madventure.

Our Campsite along the river - New Jersey

Through the grace of the Y-membership of my step-son we snagged an awesome campsite right on the river not too many miles distant from their home. Waking to the smell of fresh coffee through the soul satisfying sounds of the river rushing directly outside our door is my idea of a slice of heaven right here on this little blue marble spinning wildly in the vast unknowns of space. Ahhhhh…."Calgon take me away" (for those of you old enough to remember those commercials).

Our grandson turned 7 on this trip. I found myself thinking back to the pictures sent to us on the day of his birth and how grown he seems now. Being included in the round of Laser Tag with his friends and the later family birthday gathering was the true highlight of this journey.

Laser Tag Center

Happy 7th Birthday to our Grandson

Mayberry, Virginia

The trip home through the Shenandoah Valley and along the Blue Ridge Parkway was leisurely, cool and sometimes colorful in mid-October. Taking our time from NJ to SC we stopped and smelled the roses in many spots along the way. Finding Mayberry on a back road in VA was an unexpected bit of serendipity taking us back in time to where General Stores were really…well…general. It was not at all hard to imagine that at any moment Andy, Opie, Deputy Barney Fife and/or Aunt Bea would walk into the store looking for some thing or another needed for the day.

Camping on the Blue Ridge Parkway

Safe to say that our little adventure was exactly as we hoped…and more…especially since our Grandson made me smile by telling me in a quiet moment that he was glad we had come and would be happy to see us again.  Expected? Not exactly. This NJ grandchild has gotten the short end of the grandparent deal with us seeing him only at Second Christmas gatherings in NC, 2 christenings, 2 birthdays and 2 funerals in NJ. Now that I have retired, we hope to correct that by spending as many birthdays with him until he thinks he’s too old for it. (which I hope, quite frankly, is not ever.)

Beach Chairs on the bay at Cape May

Assateague Island National Seashore

 The Island

At about 37 miles long, the island and parks (state and national) straddle the states of Virginia and Maryland with a topography that ranges from the scrub flats and salt marshes on the northern end of the island to a maritime forest on the other end. There are 2 campgrounds on the Maryland end of the island…one is National Park and the other is State park. The island is also owned/operated in partnership with the US Fish and Wildlife Service. A triumvirate focused on protecting the natural resources of the island and its varied inhabitants. Bravo to them.

Our campsite within the beachfront Assateague State Park was pointed to us by the ranger as one where there was a break in the dunes that would give us the sound of the waves even so there was no sight of them. As it turned out that break was also Pony Lane. Though we neither saw nor heard the ponies during the night, evidence of their passing was fresh each morning…some of it quite fragrantly so.

Pony Lane

None of the campsites are directly on the oceanfront, which in my view, is as it should be.  The dune system is a natural resource that protects the island, horses, birds and the fragile bayside eco-system from incoming storms. (Although October’s Hurricane Sandy did extensive damage on both ocean and bay side of the island…thanks to many paid and volunteer man-hours much of the damage is being mitigated and the parks are open again.) It is my personal view that the need to protect this special environment outweighs the popularity of beach front camping. I’m glad there are others out there who work exactly toward that end.

This is not a fancy resort campground. The draw is the beautiful, soft sand beaches and the island ponies. You can catch eye popping sunrises on the beach or meander over to the bayside for spectacular sunsets across the salt marsh (unfortunately the weather did not co-operate for the latter…oh, well…there’s always next time). The breeze from the ocean teases the nose with the marvelous tang of salt air. The brilliant sea sun warms both body and soul.

Assateague Sunrise

Plain Jane thought it is I love this place and the site we chose to reside for an all too short time. The chilled dark night provided a tapestry of stars so full one could actually see the dim arms of the Milky Way in the ebon sky. There is little light noise to cancel out the wealth of starlight in the cold air. The rhythmic echo of the waves through the dune break was as if sleeping to a personal lullaby. (Yes….even so it was chilly I cracked the window enough to hear the sea’s tattoo upon the shore.)

While we had a neighbor to one side, our next was several campsites away. Each site is relatively large, with the exception being those on the single loop that provides electricity and on-site water hook-ups. That loop was rather crowded and we were happy to be boondocking away from what we dubbed “Tin Can City” using our own on-board battery power. The bath house was large and very clean providing a hot shower that was quite welcome after a day of adventuring. Wi-fi is even available at the camp store where you can bask in the warmth of the sun on a cool day or under canopied shade in the heat of summer whilst surfing the net. We are grateful that a portion of the park fee aided in providing this service free of charge such that we could keep up with family fairly regularly via the internet (cuz donchano the youngsters they do worry when us old geezers are out madventuring in the wilds).

The Horses

The island is also home to the feral Assateague Ponies brought to fame by author Marguerite Henry in her book Misty of Chincoteague (a small island between Assateague and the mainland). There are no less than 2 lines of thinking regarding the history of the ponies of the island. For details see these:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chincoteague_Pony

http://www.chincoteague.com/ponies.html

Their interactions with humans is not entirely without consequence making them both at ease as well as endangered by our desire to see them up close and personal. The Maryland Ponies are owned by the National Park service and roam their end of the island at will with little interference except for contraception to keep the herd at an ecologically balanced level. The Chincoteague Ponies are owned by the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company which sponsors the yearly channel crossing and Pony penning to raise money for their continued care. These ponies receive regular veterinary care and only the most healthy are pulled for the round-up, swim and sale.

While on the Maryland end, we were as delighted as anyone by our brief encounters. Yet as much as the desire was there to reach out and touch them…we did not…choosing instead to respect the sanctity of their freedom to roam. The Chincoteague ponies roaming the Virginia end of the island are fenced and kept to areas in which the numbers of humans can be monitored. They are not as truly wild as the Maryland ponies, but their lives are more stable. Whatever the truth is regarding their heritage, these beautiful animals hark back to a time in history when animals freely roamed this country and awaken a certain sense of freedom in the soul.

The Lighthouse

Assateague Light

Indulging our penchant for lighthouses we negotiated the roadways back across the mainland, south to Virginia, across the bridge to Chincoteague and another leading into Assateague’s southern end. Ironically, the land here is part of the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge. A short hike up a hill and through the woods ends at Assateague Light. This lighthouse, built in 1867, replaced the much shorter 1833 light. The top of the light is open to the public June through September, but visitors are welcome to view the exterior grounds any time of year. Needing a paint job, the red and white vertical stripe is unassuming in appearance with its only grand view from ground level being that of the Assateague Channel and Chincoteague Island across it. Hopefully next trip will be during climbing season and the expansive views documented here will be available:

http://www.assateagueisland.com/lighthouse/lighthouse_inside.htm

Our time on Assateague was too short…short enough to plan another stay on our next journey north.

Up next…Cape May and Hereford Inlet

Fort Story and the Old Cape Henry Lighthouse

Just around the corner from First Landing SP is Fort Story, also known as the Joint Expeditionary Forces Base East, a sub-installation of Fort Eustis. It is also home to the Old Cape Henry Lighthouse as well as the newer lighthouse across the road.

If you read the story here:

https://preservationvirginia.org/visit/historic-properties/cape-henry-lighthouse

and get to the part where you have to show ID, can be searched, etc….believe it. You are entering an active military base that guards the waterway through the Chesapeake Bay. We spent a half-hour or more on the bay-walk at the Cape Henry Memorial Park on the base watching carriers, destroyers and subs enter and leave the Bay.

More info here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cape_Henry_Memorial

Our sentries were friendly, but professional; smiling, but not joking around.  I did find myself, howsumever, grateful that we had parked Li’l Scamp in Visitor Parking back at the campground. Opening every nook and cranny for inspection would have been a time consuming project.

The Old Lighthouse sits on property that is both private and military; neither is the historic lighthouse portion very large. The newer light sits across the parking lot on a small plot surrounded by a fence into which one is NOT allowed entrance as it is an active Coast Guard station. It’s an odd feeling to tread upon ground that lives in history both old and new. The picture at the top of this post, borrowed from Wikipedia, shows the lights side by side. It’s not a view the average tourist gets to see as you are reminded to remain on the main road and STOP at the red flashing lights. Really.

Still it was fun to view the lights, walk the memorial park along the bay and see the ships on their way to and from who knows where. The rigamarole to get in was worth it, howsumever, as we found ourselves taken not only by the fact that this is one of the oldest surviving lighthouses, but also by the job this military base does in service to this country.  That’s a truism regardless of one’s politics or feelings about our military in general and this old Viet Nam era hippie is grateful.

Up next…Assateague Island National Seashore

First Landing State Park

First Landing State Park sits at the hook of the Chesapeake Bay and its nexus with the Atlantic Ocean. One can view the Bay Bridge and Tunnel entrances/exits from the shoreline of the park, 27 miles from one side of the Chesapeake to the other. It is a most odd sensation to consider driving through the two tunnels knowing tons of water ride above you separated by what seems a very thin layer of concrete and metal. 

Back on the beach sand as soft as velvet tickles the toes and is liberally dotted with a multitude of Horseshoe Crabs in varying stages of dismantlement. Finding raccoon tracks along the strand leads to the conclusion that the wily creatures eat quite well in these surroundings. What is disappointing is a noticeable lack of the typical Eastern Atlantic shell life. Mayhap they are covered by the incessant migration of sand toward the shore as evidenced by the disappearance of about 2 feet of the boardwalk beneath the constantly moving particles.

The campground itself is nestled among a line of dunes protected scrub oaks, sea grasses and other low growing vegetation.  The history of this park is of interest as it was near the very first Virginia landing by settlers in 1607. The park itself was built by the CCC in the 1930.  

See the story here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First_Landing_State_Park

Sunset, while not spectacular on this particular evening, was, nonetheless beautiful across the waters of the Chesapeake and always welcome when camping near a lake, river or, in this case, bay.  Snugged within the sheltering limbs of twisted scrub our little home on wheels was serendipitously angled to provide a striking view of the full moon through streaked clouds as lazy crickets slowly chirped in the cool early autumn air.  

In search of tasty seafood, we questioned the friendly attendant at the gate about a good local “mom’n’pop” eatery. Served with yummy oyster crackers and hush puppies on the side, Charlie’s Seafood Restaurant is locally famous for its She-Crab soup. It is a tasty concoction which they will also freeze and ship anywhere Fed-Ex overnight. Sampling that and a perfectly seasoned blackened Flounder was a satisfying end to a long afternoon on the road.

Next stop…the old lighthouse that lies within the grounds of still very active Fort Story.

Time to Hit the Road

Labor had us marking maps, making reservations and buying a birthday present for our extended journey to visit our NJ Grandson for his birthday.  7 years old…I remember when he was born, christened and just learning to walk. Now he’s a cub scout, plays basketball and loves karate. Oy.

The plan was to scoot out with a quick stop in NC, head up the coast, across to NJ, back down through the Shenandoah, along the Blue Ridge Parkway and finally land home 3 weeks later. What a wonderful trip it turned out to be. And, our Big Guy was such a great host.

The itinerary looked like this:

Grand Divas – Raleigh, NC

First Landing State Park - VA

Assateague National Seashore – MD and VA

Cape May - NJ

Long Beach Island – NJ

Washington Station – NJ

Shenandoah Parkway – VA

Blue Ridge Parkway – VA, NC and SC

Home

Ultimate goal? Birthday party with the Grandson and EAT SEAFOOD. Goal accomplished.

Highlights of the trip included the old Cape Henry Lighthouse on the grounds of very active combined forces Fort Story; the free roaming ponies of Assateague; the Assateague Light House; riding the Cape May Ferry; stopping in at the lighthouses at Cape May and Hereford Inlet; the awesome YMCA campground that was our weeklong home in NJ;  the sights, sounds and smells of the amazing Shenandoah Valley, Mayberry (VA), Mabry Mill and and some of the best darn seafood we’ve ever eaten.

Details to follow.

Hunting Island, SC

East of Beaufort, SC, down Hwy 21 and across the Johnson Creek Bridge onto one of SC’s many barrier islands on the Atlantic coast lies a loverly, partially ocean fronted state-owned campground designated as Hunting Island State Park.  Created by the CCC in the 1930’s, it is a beautiful low-country haven nestled in a densely wooded maritime forest full of tall Slash Pines, ancient moss-draped Live Oaks, swaying Cabbage Palmetto trees and sturdy Saw Palmetto scrub. (The following website has great information about the park and surrounding area: http://www.huntingisland.com/index.html)

Labor Day week-end found us habiting a last minute vacated campsite dubbed “The Swamp” cuz it would have been had we had the misfortune of rain. A paddle board would have been required to get from door to road in the event of a downpour, so we were mightily grateful that, although hot and humid as Hades, it did not. 

On the ocean-front sites you can fall asleep to the hypnotic sound of the waves enhanced by a soothing (though not always cool) ocean breeze through the windows. Position your campsite properly and you will be treated to sunrise from your sleeping mat…pretty cool not to have to get out of bed to see the sun come up donchano. Of course, you can always set an alarm and nestle yourself on the sand to watch it from nature’s vantage point, sharing the moment with fellow campers, shore birds and, possibly, passing dolphin depending on the tide. (I always expect that magical moment from City of Angles where the earth seems to sing its welcome/farewell to the rising/setting sun…it’s there in my head even if not truly in the ear.)

I’m embarrassed to admit that we never got up early enough this trip to stroll out to the beach to capture the sunrise. Howsumever, a beautiful full moon over Hunting Island Campground Beach has many shots…of which this is only one.  Mea culpa.

Tidal marshes across the highway on the inland side of the island are home to an amazing bounty of  oysters (didja know they spit and “pop” their shells?), egrets, cranes, heron, osprey, bald eagle and even alligators. Sunset views from the bridges, boat ramps and marshwalks can be jaw-droppingly beautiful and dramatic. Caveat, however, is that insect repellent with DEET is not only a good idea, but, requisite during the summer months. The mosquitos can be vicious and there’s something just not quite as soul satisfying in viewing the sunset from the closed doors and windows of your vehicle.

Campsites vary in size, wood density and relative location to the shower houses with many being sites within literal spitting distance of its neighbor. That said, folks are friendly and respective of both space and noise sensitivities (an amazing feat since it was both Clemson and Carolina’s first football weekends.) With a dune to our back and a solid empty length front and rear The Swamp’s neighbors were across the camp road from Li’l Scamp’s front door.  Having chosen to base themselves at the rear of their site, the group of 8 or so animated young adults were never rowdy or rude. Each morning of our stay the toddler son of one of the group entertained us with his daily routine of hauling things about their campsite rickshaw style in his umbrella stroller. Referring back to the afore mentioned Football Weekend…with electricity available many campers had brought along big-screen TV’s and designated canopy in case of rain for what boiled down to one huge weekend long tail-gate party.

Keeping food and garbage neatly tucked away at night is a good habit as raccoons are likely nocturnal visitors rummaging through your stuff in search of treats. Deer often roam through the park in the early morning and post-sunset evening hours which can surprise both you and the deer at unexpected meetings during a shower house run.

The most visited of our state parks the holiday weekend saw the campground full to the gills with families, bicycles, boogie boards and family pets. We came across grown-up folk who had been camping at Hunting Island since THEY were children, often reserving the same campsite year after year each weekend for the entire summer. For us it was a glorious first-time, hot, humid, mosquito buzzing 3-day escape from the work-day world bringing back happy memories of tent camping days with our own young offspring.

This is a location that has definite “revisit” stamp onnit. There is so much to see and do, not only within the confines of the state park, but the surrounding area that several blog posts to follow will continue with this particular 3-day adventure

Warning…Caution…Caveat…Disclaimer…etc…

The Mr. and I are eclectic, if not often a little nerdy, in our travel. We love not only the getting to and being there, but the history and geology of our surroundings in addition to the where to eats and what to sees of a place.

Therefore, and with due warning to our followers, both are quite likely to be integral to the narrative and links of the travelogues that you read…or not… depending upon your nature.

We now return you to your regularly scheduled program already in progress.